China - The Kickoff

July 2nd, 2007
Hangzhou, Zhejiang, Pepople's Republic of China

Flew to London in the company of Helen, a Chinese American MBA student at Wharton, on her way to Croatia with friends. Soke for five of the eight hours in flight. Then spent another two at Heathrow. She was advising me with the do's and don'ts of China. In a snapshot: drink only bottled water, try to avoid cheap eateries, if someone comes up to you on the road you should walk away - everyone has an agenda there, you'll get mugged at least four times during your trip and finally, she assured me that, either way, I'll have a great time.

Met Nihalf for a quick brunch in London. Had a full English breakfast at a Spanish eatery, walking distance from Padington Station. Showered at his place and grabbed "American Shaolin" from his book collection. It's about an American student that comes to China's Shaolin temple, the birth place of martial arts, to learn kungfu.

Took the Heathrow Express back to fly out. Met Francis on the train. Francis is a well-fed man wearing a pin-striped banker suit sitting with expensive luggage. He confirmed that the British Airways flight to Shanghai was leaving from Terminal 4 and then showered me with questions about myself. Didn't realize that I was picking up another travelling companion. We spoke from then all the way to Shanghai. He is a Partner at a real estate fund, a husband. a music composer and a poet. Quite the character. I will hopefully meet him for a meal in Shanghai.

Reached Shanghai an hour late because we took off an hour late from London. Reason for the delay? Hungover stewardess that woke up late and made the entire flight wait for her to get to the airport. I was surprised that we actually delayed the flight for her, but I suppose the Brits make exceptions for binge drinkers. It's a cultural thing. Watched "Factory Girl" on the way (about Edie Sedgwick, Andy Warhol's temporary muse). My trip partner on this leg was a 20 year old Canadian girl that was enjoying her second gap year after high school - she's been traveling all over (US, Europe, Mexico, Australia, Thailand).

The Pu Dong airport, like most of central Shanghai, is futuristic and clean. It's busy, but there is a well-defined method to the madness. I took the long distance bus to Hangzhou (where Jordan lives) in an air conditioned bus that sped through the highway with no mercy. Inevitably, I got here earlier than expected and found the delightful Lucy Wang waiting for me in front of the Yellow Dragon stadium. Met Jordan at a Starbucks during his lunch break. We got to their home and I ate through everything in their fridge (Lucy's mom is quite the cook) and put a respectable dent on their collection of fifteen water melons.

We walked down Tian Mu Shan road and found a non-shady massage place, where I had their finest employee work on my back for an hour. Walked through a city square where Coca-Cola's promotional setup had gathered a crowd of a few hundred to watch three scantily claded girls perform a Spearsesque dance to English pop songs on an elevated platform in front for a huge sign that reminded everyone that drinking Coke is a lifestyle and a statement, not just a thirst quencher. Consumer propaganda is one of the best things that ever happened to Corporate America.

The night. What a night. We got ready and left home wearing all-white clothes to comply with the theme of the private party at a local club. The crowd: twenty somethings that are kids of new money and are students at Jordan's English language school. Their parents pay Jordan's school up to $5,000 a month just for a few classes of English. I met the eclectic crowd of teachers and the 100% Chinese crowd of students. Drinks were free and shots were pouring all over.

We left to head to the nicest and biggest club in the city, SOS. DJ Tam was spinning there right after the private party, so he drove us to SOS and then procured an ungodly amount of alcohol for the crew. Strobing lights and a dense crowd jumping to the throbbing techno beats. I thought it was an insane day, but then the club suddenly went silent and nine men from the Chinese army marched on the stage in their uniform, and as soon as the music resumed, they began their well choreographed dance. General Mao was on the screens and the Chinese flag was projected on the walls. Right behind me, at the bar, the bartenders began lighting fireworks and the crowd cheered wildly. It was an insane spectacle. They were celebrating a hundred years of the Communist Party on July 1st, 10 years of Hong Kong handover and 1st day of Ritesh's trip. Ended the night with three cups of green tea to detox and avoid a hangover. It actually worked.

Kalati